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When curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. But, tucked near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the owners totally surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” says a family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small place achieving such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary triumph.